Rome & Venice: An Unexpected Journey

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The Church of Santissima Trinità dei Monti

My husband and I visited Rome twice: first in April 2010 and again in April 2023 with our daughter. Most descriptions and pictures I’ll share are from our recent trip.

We started our 2023 city tour with a leisurely half-day walk, enjoying a lunch break with delicious Limoncello. Our route included the Church of Santissima Trinità dei Monti, the Spanish Steps, the Piazza di Spagna, the Fontana di Trevi, and the Pantheon.

The Church of Santissima Trinità dei Monti was commissioned in 1502 by Louis XII for the French Royal Family. It is built in Gothic style with stone from Narbonne, France. In front of the church is the Obelisco Sallustiano, one of the many obelisks in Rome. Some claim there are 14, but estimates range from 13 to 15. Not all obelisks are ancient Egyptian; for example, the Sallustiano is Roman and has inscriptions copied from the Flaminio Obelisk in Piazza del Popolo.

The Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps are the widest and longest staircase in Europe, consisting of 136 steps, as my daughter counted! 😊

The Spanish Steps connect Piazza di Spagna at the bottom with Trinità dei Monti at the top.

We walked from our hotel to Trinità dei Monti and then made our way down the steps to Piazza di Spagna and Fontana della Barcaccia.

Unfortunately, as of 2019, sitting on the Spanish Steps is no longer allowed, and violators may face fines of up to €400. So, while we enjoyed sitting there in 2010, in 2023, we simply walked.

Piazza di Spagna & Fontana della Barcaccia

Piazza di Spagna is a well-known square in the historic center of Rome. Until the 17th century, this area was called the French Square. The name was changed to Piazza di Spagna when the seat of the Spanish embassy was relocated to this square.

At the foot of the Spanish Steps on Piazza di Spagna, there is one of Italian sculptor Pietro Bernini's masterpieces: the Fontana della Barcaccia.

Bernini built Fontana della Barcaccia (around 1629) as part of a papal project to build fountains in all central Rome squares. In 1598, the river Tiber flooded, washing a boat onto Piazza di Spagna, inspiring Bernini's creation. Fontana della Barcaccia is known as "The Fountain of the Ugly Boat" or "Sinking Boat Fountain." No matter what they call it - what is impressive is that the water source comes from an Aqueduct built in 19 BCE!

Piazza di Spagna & Fontana della Barcaccia

Fontana di Trevi

The legend states that those who toss coins into its waters will return to Rome. This has proven true in my case. The Fontana di Trevi was built in the 18th century and designed by the Italian architect Nicola Salvi.

Fontana di Trevi

In the heart of the fountain, you can see a stunning sculpture of Neptune, the Roman god of freshwater and the sea, surrounded by the playful Tritons, the young sea gods. If you want to snag the perfect photo, it's a great idea to visit the Fontana di Trevi early in the morning since it gets super crowded. We didn't do that, but that's okay! 😊

Fontana di Trevi

Fontana di Trevi

Pantheon

The Pantheon looks fantastic! It's been beautifully preserved despite several robberies, renovations, and restorations over the years. Originally built around 126 AD during Emperor Hadrian's reign, this incredible place is also known as the Temple of All Gods. Back in 608 AD, Pope Boniface IV turned it into a church and named it the Basilica di Santa Maria ad Martyres, or the Basilica of St. Mary and the Martyrs. Today, it’s still a functioning Christian church!

We didn't get a chance to go inside this time, but we’re looking forward to checking it out on our next visit. After all, the third time's the charm! 😊

Pantheon

Colosseum, The Roman Forum & Palatine Hill

The Colosseum is the first association with Rome for many people, as well as for me.

This giant amphitheater is 50m high and was constructed in 72 AD. Everyone knows that gladiator and animal fights were held in it, which could be watched by 50,000 - 80,000 spectators. However, the Colosseum was sometimes filled with water to represent naval battles (our guide told us that it could be filled with no more than 3-5 cm of water). 

Our guide told us that Roman Emperors used to sit near gladiator enters so they could have a better view of fighters. It is estimated that more than 500,000 slaves and over a million animals were killed in the gladiator games, which were held in the Colosseum in Rome for more than three centuries.

There is compelling evidence that female gladiators, known as gladiatrices or amazons, were indeed used in the blood games of the Colosseum, albeit on rare occasions. A striking ancient marble relief discovered in Halicarnassus (modern-day Turkey) vividly illustrates two women in combat armed with shields, swords, and leg protectors. The figures are labeled as Amazon and Achillia, underscoring their presence in this brutal arena.

Throughout its history, the Colosseum has suffered significant damage from devastating earthquakes. At one point, it was even used as a quarry, with stones taken from it to construct churches and hospitals in Rome. Despite these challenges, the Colosseum remains an iconic symbol of the Roman Empire and the city of Rome.

Colosseum

Colosseum

The Arch of Constantine stands as a magnificent tribute to Emperor Constantine the Great, proudly located next to the Colosseum.

The Arch of Constantine

The Roman Forum

The Roman Forum was the center of ancient Rome's political, legal, economic, cultural, and religious life. It includes all the buildings, monuments, and remains of ancient ruins. Our guide explained that Caesar devised his war plans at the Roman Forum.

 The Roman Forum

 The Roman Forum

 The Roman Forum

The Arch of Titus is located near the Roman Forum. Emperor Domitian dedicated it to his deceased brother, Titus, in honor of Titus's victory, alongside their father, Vespasian, over the Jewish rebellion in Judaea.

The Arch of Titus

The Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius constructed the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina in memory of his late wife, Faustina. This temple is one of the best-preserved structures in the Forum because it was converted into a Catholic church during the early Middle Ages.

The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina

The Temple of Vesta, the goddess of Rome's hearths

The second Roman king, Numa Pompilius, established the order of Vestal Virgins to serve the goddess Vesta. The Romans believed that Vesta's flame was intimately connected to the city's well-being and that extinguishing it could lead to disastrous consequences for Rome. The flame burned in Vesta's temple, located in the Forum, and the priestesses resided in the Vestal House.

Vestal Virgins were women of aristocratic origin who took a vow of chastity in service to Vesta. Their term of service lasted 30 years, typically beginning at the age of six and ending at 36. During this time, they were forbidden from losing their virginity, and those who violated this vow faced the severe punishment of being buried alive. However, the Vestals were not only punished for violations of celibacy; they could also be severely punished and flogged for even minor infractions. In extreme cases, they could be sentenced to death if a significant disaster befell Rome. After 30 years of service, Vestal Virgins had the option to leave and marry.

The Temple of Vesta, the goddess of Rome's hearths

Remains of the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine The Roman Forum

The Roman Forum

The Palatine Hill

According to legend, a she-wolf discovered the two baby brothers, Romulus and Remus, on the Palatine Hill. Palatine Hill is located near the Roman Forum, but to visit it, you need to reserve a ticket that includes access to the hill. Since we visited Palatine Hill in 2010, we decided to skip the tour in 2023.

The Palatine Hill

The Palatine Hill

Gardens of Farnese upon the Palatine Hill

Umbrella pine upon the Palatine Hill

Vatican City

Vatican Museum

It was a bit tricky explaining to my daughter that Vatican City is actually an independent microstate right in the heart of Rome, but that's just part of the fun! I believe that traveling with kids is a wonderful way to invest in their education. Even if children don't fully understand what they see, the memories gained from traveling will hold significance for them later in life. Travels provide new, extraordinary, and vivid experiences that stand out from their everyday lives, leaving lasting impressions in a child's memory.

Vatican Museum

Let's chat about the Vatican Museum! It's absolutely massive! Can you believe that if we paused for just half a minute in front of every piece of art, it would take us two whole days to see everything? 😊 We went there on April 12th, right after the Easter holidays, so it was pretty packed. At one point, we lost track of our guide, which made our little adventure even more interesting as we searched for him again. 😊

The Spiral Staircase at the Vatican Museum (Scala Elicoidale, Giuseppe Momo, 1932.)

Part of the large Pinecone Courtyard (the name comes from the huge pinecone)  

Sphere Within Sphere (Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, Vatican Museum Courtyard)

A View from Vatican Museum

A View from Vatican Museum

A museum piece that caught my attention

Life Size Famous Marble Laocoon and His Sons Statue

According to the legend in Homer's Iliad, the Trojans thought the Greeks gave up the siege, leaving a wooden horse in front of the walls of Troy as a gift to the goddess Athena. Laocoon tried to convince his fellow citizens to destroy the Trojan horse and even threw a spear at it. But, the citizens of Troy chose not to listen to him. Laocoon thereby angered the goddess Athena, the protector of the Greeks (Achaeans), and she sent two giant snakes to drown him and his two sons.

Sistine Chapel

As part of our visit to the Vatican Museum, we toured the Sistine Chapel in both 2010 and 2023. It truly is a spectacular sight. In addition to the magnificent artwork, we particularly enjoyed the guide's story about Michelangelo's painting of the "Last Judgment."

Interestingly, Michelangelo initially refused to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. He was primarily a sculptor and believed he was not skilled enough in fresco painting. However, Pope Julius II was persistent, and Michelangelo eventually accepted the job, completing the ceiling vault in four years.

Twenty-five years later, he was invited to paint the "Last Judgment." Our guide mentioned that during this project, Michelangelo faced many challenges with the Papal Master of Ceremonies, Biagio da Cesena.

Biago complained about Michelangelo's Last Judgment, arguing that it was entirely immoral to depict naked people in a sacred space. In response, Michelangelo included Biago in the painting, portraying him among the sinners with a snake wrapped around his body. It's said that when Biago complained to Paul III, the pope laughed and replied that his jurisdiction doesn't extend to Hell and that he could not free Biago from there.

Tip regarding booking tickets: Make sure it's neither too early nor too late

Since we visited Rome during the Easter holidays in 2023, we should have booked everything in advance, but it was a bit tricky.

We tried to book tickets for the Colosseum, Vatican, and Villa Borghese online three months in advance, but it was impossible to reserve tickets. It was too early. The system responded, "Hi, early bird—try later."

When we remembered to book tickets again, it was only two weeks before our trip, and only more expensive tickets were available. We managed to secure online visits to the Vatican and the Colosseum. However, visiting Villa Borghese was impossible for the three of us because only one ticket remained for our selected dates.

St. Peter's Basilica, located in Vatican City

Saint Peter's Square, Vatican City

Borghese Gardens

If lucky enough 😊 you could visit Villa Borghese, located in the beautiful Borghese Gardens. Villa Borghese exhibits the works of Bernini, Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, Raphael... We tried in 2023, but just like in 2010, we didn't buy tickets on time. "Of course, the third time's the charm!"😊

Villa Borghese

A walk through the park gardens, you reach the Villa Borghese, which is also a wonderful experience! 

Borghese Gardens

The park is large and features a beautiful small lake, where you can rent a rowboat for 20 minutes and enjoy rowing. In the lake's center stands the Temple of Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine.

Borghese Lake & Temple of Asclepius

The abundance of ducks and turtles around the lake creates a relaxing experience, making it feel like a true oasis!

Borghese Lake

Borghese Lake

The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art

On the way back, we visited The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art, which was unplanned. We were attracted by the huge two gorilla' sculptures and the "BORN TO SET IT RIGHT" writing on the steps. When we got inside, we had the opportunity to see The exhibition “Food Age. Food as Influencer” by Martí Guixé and Inga Knölke.

The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art

Castel Sant'Angelo

Castel Sant'Angelo was constructed in the 2nd century as a mausoleum under the orders of Emperor Hadrian. Over the centuries, its function has transformed: it has served as a papal residence, a military fortress, a prison, and is now a museum.

Castel Sant'Angelo

According to legend, a plague broke out in Rome in 509 AD. Pope Gregory I had a vision in which St. Michael appeared atop a castle, sheathing his sword. The pope interpreted this as a sign that the epidemic would end. From that day forward, the building has been known as Castel Sant'Angelo.

St. Michael, putting his sword back in its scabbard

The Passetto di Borgo is a corridor that connects Vatican City with Castel Sant'Angelo. It runs atop the old Vatican wall between St. Peter's Basilica and Castel Sant'Angelo. While you can see it from Castel Sant'Angelo, I'm not sure if it is open to the public. Several popes have used this passage as an emergency escape route.

Passetto di Borgo

Beside the five-story castle and museum, you can see various sculptures, including two statues of San Michele Arcangelo: a marble statue in the yard and a bronze statue on the castle's roof. A special highlight of our visit was a beautiful fashion exhibition titled "The Sweet Sixties: Narrazioni di Moda."

Castel Sant Angelo. Level 4, Marble statue of San Michele Arcangelo by Raffaello da Montelupo

The Sweet Sixties, Narrazioni di Moda

At the top of the castle, a stunning view of Rome awaits you as a treat.

View of Rome

View of Rome

Victor Emmanuel II Monument

The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument is a large national monument constructed between 1885 and 1935 to honor Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy. Not all residents of Rome were equally enthusiastic about its architecture, leading to the monument being nicknamed "Wedding Cake" and "Typewriter."

The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument

Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo is a large square in Rome, and its name means "People's Square." We visited in 2010 but unfortunately didn't have time to revisit this beautiful square in 2023. In the center of Piazza del Popolo stands the Flaminian Obelisk, one of the most significant obelisks in the city and the first to be brought from Egypt to Rome.

Piazza del Popolo

An Unexpected Journey from Rome to Venice

On April 18, 2010, we were supposed to fly back home. Still, volcanic eruptions at Eyjafjallajökull in Iceland created a massive ash cloud that led to the closure of most of the European airspace. Consequently, our return flight from Rome to Belgrade was canceled. However, this setback did not discourage us. Instead, we seized the opportunity to travel by high-speed train from Rome to Venice. This turned out to be one of the best trips ever, as we could visit Venice for at least one day. Even a one-day visit is better than not seeing it at all!

Inside Rome Termini Railway Station on April ‎18, ‎2010

After arriving at Venezia train station, we put our luggage in storage and were ready to enjoy visiting this magnificent town. 

Venezia train station

Venezia - detail

San Geremia Church

We mostly enjoyed going around the bridges and admiring the buildings.

We didn't get to ride the gondola, so we'll leave that for another time😊. 

The Grand Canal

The Grand Canal

The Grand Canal is the "S" shape, "water highway" of Venice, and it's slightly more than 3 km long. The Canal is an ancient waterway lined with 170 buildings that were mostly built from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Venetian Masks

The city is filled with souvenir shops that sell masks, and one of the best souvenirs you can bring back from Venice is a Venetian mask. Masks have been a part of Venice's culture since the Middle Ages and have become symbols of the Venetian Carnival.

Historically, Venetian masks were worn during the Carnival to conceal faces, allowing people of different social classes—rich and poor, famous and unknown—to mingle freely. During the Venetian Republic, masks served various purposes beyond celebrating Carnival. They were also used as a form of "camouflage" for risky activities, such as gambling and smuggling.

Venetian Masks

Venetian Masks

Venetian Masks

Rome is a city I dream of returning to time and again.

I also long to revisit Venice for a few days, allowing myself to soak in the atmosphere more leisurely. Spending just one day in this magnificent city was definitely not enough for me to uncover all its amazing corners! But hey, I keep reminding myself that even a quick visit is better than not experiencing it at all.